An American retiree living in Spain, with no job and no Spanish pension, can buy full access to the country’s public health system for a flat €157 a month, roughly $170. That fee is the same whether they live on a modest savings account or a comfortable investment portfolio, and once they are in, there …
At six in the morning, before the coffee machines are even warm, a particular kind of guest is already moving. They pad down to the shuttered pool in flip-flops, towels under one arm, and wait. When the gate opens they move fast, draping a towel over the best lounger, then a second, then a third …
Type “ETIAS application” into a search engine today and you will find slick websites, official-looking logos, and a form ready to take your passport number and your card details. Almost every one of them is a trap. As of the middle of 2026, ETIAS does not exist yet. There is no portal, no application, and …
You can order sangria and no one will stop you. But if you want to drink like a Spaniard, skip the tourist jug and ask for the simple things locals actually buy: a chilled tinto de verano, a Sunday vermut, or a small glass of vino joven that often costs about the price of a …
The plates have been cleared for half an hour. The coffee cups are empty, one glass of wine is going warm, and nobody at the table has made any move to leave. In an American restaurant a waiter would have dropped the check by now, twice. Here, in a small place in a Spanish town, …
Anyone who has tried to run an errand in a Spanish town at three in the afternoon has felt the confusion. The pharmacy is shut. The hardware shop is dark. The little grocery has pulled its shutter halfway down, and the street that was busy at noon is empty and quiet. To a newly arrived …
Watch the evening paseo in any Spanish town and you will see them. Women in their sixties in pressed linen, walking arm in arm at a pace they could hold for hours, faces lined but somehow light. Men the same age in proper shoes, straight-backed, arguing about football with their hands. We see it every …
Here’s a full guide to places where local personal income tax on your retirement income is zero. You will still file with the IRS, because the U.S. taxes citizens on worldwide income, but your host country will not tax your pension checks, Social Security, or portfolio withdrawals. Use this as a planning map, not a …
By the middle of July our kitchen here becomes a room you pass through, not one you linger in. The afternoon sun hits the west wall around four and the place holds the heat like a clay oven long after the light has gone. Lighting a burner in there feels like a small act of …
In early July, Sevilla and Córdoba close their shutters against afternoons of 42 degrees Celsius (108°F), and the Mediterranean beaches pack towel to towel under the same heat. Eight hundred kilometers north, the people of Gijón are deciding whether the evening calls for a light jacket. This is the coast the title means: the green …
An American friend stayed with us for a week last summer and said the thing out loud that a lot of visitors only think. She had not snacked once since arriving, and she could not work out why. At home she grazed all day, a handful of something here, a bar in the car, a …
In the spring of 2025, the share of Europeans holding a positive opinion of the United States fell to 29 percent, down from 47 percent the previous autumn. That is one of the sharpest drops Eurobarometer has ever measured across a single winter, and by last November the European Council on Foreign Relations found that …