At sixty-four, most people are thinking about how to make the life they have last, not about tearing it up and starting over in the heel of Italy. But a certain kind of couple, at exactly that age, looks at the years ahead and decides that the safe diminishing version is not the one they …

Have a moment to think about your sunscreen use during travel and holidays. You probably remember to apply it for a beach day, or when you know you will be spending hours exploring a city. But what about the rest of the time? A lot of UV exposure happens nowhere near the pool, and that …

For many Americans, the thought of walking into a restaurant alone and asking for a table for one produces a small flicker of dread. It feels exposed, somehow, as though everyone will notice and wonder what is wrong, whether you have been stood up or have no friends, and so a great many people who …

Many travelers assume that reaching Spain’s best beaches requires a rental car, that without one you are stranded in your resort town, cut off from the coves and coastal towns just down the shore. It is one of the most persistent and most mistaken beliefs in Spanish travel. Spain has a quietly excellent network of …

There is a single piece of digital identification that quietly runs the whole of modern Spanish administrative life, that every dealing with the Spanish state increasingly assumes you have, and that almost nobody thinks to mention to a newcomer until they are already tangled in a problem it would have prevented. It is called the …

When it comes to Italian cuisine, few ingredients are as luxurious and intoxicating as truffles. Their earthy, musky aroma transforms even the simplest dishes into something unforgettable. One of the most iconic ways Italians enjoy this prized delicacy is in Tagliatelle al Tartufo, a silky pasta dish tossed with butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and freshly shaved truffle, …

Somewhere in the world right now, someone is pulling a cheesecake out of the oven with a top so dark it looks ruined, a deep, cracked, almost black surface that would make any American baker assume they had destroyed it. They have not. That scorched top is the entire point, the signature of the Basque …

An American walking into a European pharmacy or supermarket for the first time often has the same small shock at the personal-care shelves. The deodorant section, which back home sprawls across an entire aisle of sticks and gels and clinical-strength formulas, is here a modest handful of roll-ons and sprays taking up a fraction of …

Anyone who has held a bank account on both sides of the Atlantic soon discovers a strange truth: Spanish and American banks both charge fees, plenty of them, but they charge for entirely different things. The American who moves to Spain is startled to be billed simply for keeping an account open, while the Spaniard …

The first time an American hears the words fried milk, the reaction is usually a puzzled frown. Milk is a liquid. You cannot fry a liquid. But leche frita, Spain’s beloved fried milk, is one of those dishes whose strange name hides something that, once you understand it, makes complete and delicious sense. It is …

Spend a summer in Spain and you notice something quietly wonderful about the older women around you. In the fierce heat of August, when the temperature climbs and the streets shimmer, Spanish women in their sixties, seventies and beyond move through the day looking cool, put together, and effortlessly elegant, dressed in a handful of …

When an older person starts becoming forgetful, confused and unlike themselves, the fear that leaps to everyone’s mind is dementia, that slow, irreversible thief of memory and self. It is a reasonable fear, and often a correct one. But there is a quieter possibility that a good doctor will check for early, one that can …