Somewhere along the way, Americans decided breakfast should be a daily menu, a fresh choice made every groggy morning between eggs and cereal and pastry and yogurt and whatever the drive-thru is selling. Much of Europe never got that memo. Across the continent, a great many people eat more or less the same breakfast every …
Italy is so desperate to save dying villages they’re offering Americans 90% tax breaks for five years plus renovation grants up to €30,000. Not the tourist-packed Tuscan hills everyone fights over the forgotten mountain towns and southern villages where you can buy a house for €1 and pay almost nothing in taxes while rebuilding it. …
A retired engineer from suburban Cleveland arrives in Aix-en-Provence with his wife in September 2022. He is 67. She is 64. They have planned this move for four years. They sold their Ohio house, shipped a container of furniture, secured their French long-stay visas, and committed to the Provençal retirement that French wine country has …
An American arriving in Germany for the first time on a Sunday is often in for a jolt, because the shops are shut. Not some of them, not for a few hours, but nearly all of them, all day, by law. The supermarkets are dark, the clothing stores are locked, the whole apparatus of retail …
The German beer garden is one of the great social inventions of Europe, a shady grove of long wooden tables where strangers become table-mates over a liter of cold beer, and it runs on a set of unwritten rules that an American can break within minutes of arriving. Sit in the wrong section, bring the …
Every piece of American health advice I had ever absorbed said the same thing about eating dinner at nine at night: do not do it. Late eating, I had been told my whole life, makes you gain weight, wrecks your sleep, gives you indigestion, and slows your metabolism, and the sensible person finishes dinner by …
Sit on a Spanish terrace on a blazing summer afternoon and you will see people drinking beer with their lunch, glass after glass across the long, unhurried meal, and you will notice something surprising, which is that nobody around you is getting drunk. The secret is in the glass. Very often what looks like a …
And Why It Has Nothing to Do With Rudeness — And Everything to Do With Boundaries, Brevity, and Cultural Pride Spend enough time in France, and you’ll likely hear an American visitor say it. “They’re so blunt.”“Why don’t they smile more?”“They barely even said hello.” French communication can strike American ears as formal, distant, or …
You step into a Paris bakery at 8:27 a.m., adrenaline high, French low. You lead with “Do you speak English?” The clerk raises an eyebrow and continues boxing someone else’s éclairs. Two minutes later, you try again this time with “Bonjour, Madame.” The air shifts. Eyes meet. You get a smile and the next “Qui …
Spain usually looks easy from Texas. The sales pitch is clean. Lower daily costs. Walkable towns. Better produce. Long lunches. A flat near the sea for less than a suburban mortgage payment. Healthcare that feels less openly hostile. A slower life. Then month six arrives. That is where the fantasy starts getting audited by reality. …
In many Italian families, dessert is not a nightly event but a Sunday one. The tray of little pastries, the pastarelle as they call them in Rome, is bought on Sunday morning and brought to the long family lunch, shared at the end of the meal with coffee and relatives, and it is precisely because …
Americans tend to think of grilling as something close to a national invention, the backyard barbecue being as much a part of a Labor Day weekend as the flag itself. But the truth is that people have been cooking meat over fire everywhere fire and meat exist, and Europe grills with just as much passion …