You walk into a Spanish bakery, or a pharmacy, or the deli counter at the market, and it can look at first like pure chaos. There is no line, no rope, no orderly single file, just a loose scatter of people standing around, leaning on the wall, browsing the shelves, chatting to one another. To …
Everyone thinks they know schnitzel, a breaded, fried cutlet, so how hard could it possibly be. But the true Wiener schnitzel, the great pride of Vienna and the national dish of all Austria, is a far more particular and more wonderful thing than the generic fried cutlet most people picture, and getting it right comes …
Not every Italian woman does all nine every day, and not every American skips them all. Spend enough time in Italian homes, bathrooms, pharmacies, and supermarkets, though, and a pattern appears fast. Americans usually notice Italian hygiene culture in the wrong place first. They notice the bidet. That is fair. The bidet is sitting right …
A tomato farmer outside Bologna picks his summer crop having sprayed only what European rules allow, at the levels they allow, and his tomatoes reach the market carrying pesticide residues comfortably below Europe’s legal limits. That same farmer could not sell those tomatoes into the United States using the very same chemicals, and an American …
An American spending their first summer in Europe notices it within days and finds it slightly alarming. The windows are open. Everywhere, all the time, in the heat of summer, Europeans fling their windows wide and let the outside in, where an American would seal the house and crank the air conditioning. To the American, …
Like most people, I had a firm and comforting belief about coffee and sleep: an afternoon cup does not affect me, because I fall asleep just fine at night. It is one of the most common things people say about caffeine, almost always with real confidence, and it is exactly what let me happily drink …
The American on a Spanish beach for the first time experiences a small series of jolts. A woman of any age, topless, entirely unselfconscious, treating it as the most ordinary thing in the world. Families changing at the beach with a casual matter-of-factness. An ease about the body, undressed or partly so, that the American, …
An American couple is invited to dinner at the home of a Greek family they met two evenings earlier at a taverna north of Athens. The family has gone to real trouble: appetizers crowding a big central table, a lamb slow-roasted for hours, side dishes, homemade wine. It is a serious act of welcome. The …
On any Spanish beach in summer you will see something that quietly astonishes Americans. A woman of seventy, in a swimsuit, walking to the water with the unhurried ease of someone who has never once wondered whether she is allowed to be there. No cover-up clutched around her, no towel held strategically, no visible calculation …
Watch an Italian grandmother cook pasta and you will notice a small ritual that most Americans skip entirely. Just before she drains the pot, she dips a cup or a ladle into the cloudy, starchy water and sets it aside, and only then does she pour the rest down the sink. That saved cup of …
Walk through a Spanish town in September and you will notice something in the air, a sweet, smoky, unmistakable smell drifting from windows and balconies and courtyards. It is the unmistakable smell of roasting peppers, and for a few weeks each autumn it seems to fill the whole country entirely, because this is the season …
The French cafe is one of the great pleasures of travel, and it is also a quiet minefield of unwritten rules that an American can trip over before the coffee even lands on the table. None of them are written on any menu, but all of them are enforced by the servers and the regulars …