The French cafe is one of the great pleasures of travel, and it is also a quiet minefield of unwritten rules that an American can trip over before the coffee even lands on the table. None of them are written on any menu, but all of them are enforced by the servers and the regulars …
Tell an American that you and your spouse are taking separate vacations this year, that you are off to hike with friends while your partner heads somewhere else entirely, and you may be met with a worried look and the unspoken question, is everything okay at home. In much of Europe, the same announcement raises …
Somewhere in Spain, in an ordinary hospital nursery, a striking statistic is playing out one baby at a time. Roughly one in nine babies born in the country now comes into the world with the help of fertility treatment, a share so high it makes Spain the assisted-reproduction capital of Europe. Behind that number are …
Every year in France, hundreds of thousands of couples make their relationship official, and a remarkable share of them skip marriage entirely for something else. It is called the PACS, a kind of civil union that has quietly grown into one of the most popular ways to formalize a relationship in the country, so popular …
There is a way of eating well that fits on the back of a napkin and asks you to count exactly nothing, and it is one of the most quietly powerful things I have ever tested. The rule is simple: fill half your plate with vegetables, a quarter with protein, and a quarter with whole …
An American man walks up to a public swimming pool in France, ready for a swim, wearing the same knee-length board shorts he wears at every pool back home. The attendant stops him at the entrance and refuses to let him in. The problem is not the man, or his behaviour, or his ticket. It …
A 64-year-old woman in a small town outside Florence starts every morning the same way she has for the past 35 years. She fills a glass with warm water from the kettle. She squeezes half a lemon into it. She sips it slowly across about 8 minutes while she stands at her kitchen window. Then …
You are at dinner in Italy or Spain or France, the wine is flowing, and you have had exactly as much as you want. But the host, or the waiter, keeps coming, bottle in hand, ready to top you up the moment your glass dips below full, and saying no out loud, again and again, …
Imagine a recipe for mashed potatoes that called for a full pound of butter for every two pounds of potatoes. To an American eye trained on nutrition labels and portion warnings, the number looks like a misprint, or a joke, or something a cautious food editor would quietly flag and cut in half before publishing. …
A year ago, I wrote about adopting what I came to call France’s two-meal rule: the very French habit of eating two proper, unhurried meals a day, a real sit-down lunch and a real dinner, and simply not grazing in between. It was inspired by watching how the French actually eat, structured meals at set …
For thirty days straight, I wore a small sensor on the back of my arm that measured my blood sugar every few minutes and beamed the numbers to my phone. It is called a continuous glucose monitor, and while it was invented to help people with diabetes manage a serious condition, a growing number of …
Watch a Spanish cook deal with a tomato and you will witness something quietly ingenious. Instead of blanching it in boiling water to loosen the skin, shocking it in ice, slipping off the peel, and chopping the flesh the way so many American recipes instruct, they simply cut the tomato in half and grate the …